Back To England

" A child on a farm looks up to the sky, sees a plane and dreams of a far away place. A man on a plane looks at the the farm and dreams of home"

Today I am that man, but it wont be to long before once again I am that child !!!!!

Recoleta

A visit to Buenos Aries has to include the cemetary at Recoleta to see the tomb of Eva Peron. Like a small town the design and detail of the tombs was fascinating, and many actually dwarfed that of Eva Peron. A simple design with a memorial plaque on the outside it would have been easy to miss had it not been for a small gathering of people outside.

What struck me most was a single white rose gently lit by a soft ray of sunshine. Very moving.

Later I went to dinner on my own and over a scrummy steak reflected on the places I had been, the people I had met, and the memories that will stay with me forever.

Boca Juniors

Home of Maradona, and the best footie team in Argentina. The stadium itself is called the Chocolate Bowl which suggests something it isn't. It's intimidating, hostile, noisy and has 60,000 fans baying for blood in scenes similar to that of a Roman coliseum.

A fabulous experience.

It Takes Two To Tango

Buenos Aries is a fabulous city and in many ways very European. I arrived at 6am in the morning, checked into the hotel (5 on the shower scale) then went straight out to play. First stop was the Pink House, home of the government and scene of numerous balcony speaches by famous presidents. In the square itself was a demonstration by Falklands veterans, a reminder that in war it is always the ordinary soldier that is the victim of the politicians decisions !!

After a sombre and serious start to the day it was off to La Boca for lunch, tango, and a feast of photography. I loved this place so vibrant in colour and with a passion and energy like no other. Of course having done a bit of ballroom dancing at school I had to give the tango a go.

My tutor on the other hand had two distinct advantages ...

1) She could dance

2) She was fit (as in drop dead gorgeous)

As for me well the bit I seemed to master really well was when I had to support her on one leg as she wrapped the other one around me. Have to admit this was the best dancing I had ever done :)

Saying Goodbye

Back to Miraflores to have a goodbye drink with Gwen, Clare and Kathryn, my travelling companions for the last few days. The location was an exclusive peir complete with with bars, restuarants, and a yacht club. Margate for the elite ha ha !!

Obviously we fitted in well with the locals and as the sun set I said my goodbyes and once again headed off on my own.

Lima

After Santiago and La Paz I was expecting my 3rd capital in 4 weeks to be a mixture of noise. dirt and chaos. How wrong I was and the first thing that hit me about Lima was how clean the streets were. The city is huge, sprawling but with some very clear destinations for backpackers, and with it there was actually a sense of order, something I had not seen for weeks. My hotel was in a great location close to Playa Des Armas, the main square. Lunch was a 3 course meal for 60p and a good one at that.

In the evening it was off to Miraflores, an upmarket suburb by the sea. There was a huge American influence with starbucks, TGI Fridays and even a Hooters. Baranca was the livliest area in town witha numerous bars and clubs built into old colonial buildings. A strange combination but it worked well and as always a good time was had by all.

Back To Cusco ...

... and back to Mama Afrikas for another wild night. Probably best I don't go into detail but special mention for Kathryn, Angel (he's a guy), Roseanna and especially Fiorella.

Machu Pichu

Magical !!

I have always wanted to go to this place and finally it happened. To make things even more mysterious the weather obliged by shrouding the site in some fabulous cloud formations. For four hours I just took it all in and despite there being lots of people wandering around it was possible to find some very private spots to just sit and reflect, and of course take numerous photos.

Once again words cannot really describe things in an adequate way but the memories will last forever. As the title of my blog says ... " A dream can be".

The Last Supper

A big group of us went out tonight as many of us will be going our seperate ways. I've met some fab people over the past month, many of whom have turned into very good friends. I got them al to write in my journal so I've got some nice memories that have been captured forever. A few of the Aussie boys will be heading to Europe later in the year so no doubt we will be meeting up for a beer.

On The Trail Of The Inca's

This is the bit of my trip I've really been looking forward to, and it started with a walk throuh the Sacred Valley. The ruins are simply stunning and each one prompted so many questions. It also made me realise what an advanced civilisation they were, and also how they had been ravaged by the Spanish. In many ways it's difficult to describe the ruins, and even my photos will not do them justice. I just consider myself very lucky to be able to experience them.

One minor downside ... al the walking, climbing etc has really takn it's toll on my leg. Luckily Flick (an Aussie physio) was around to help out. She told me that I had very interesting legs ha ha !!

Thanks Flick ... I owe you.

Saturday Night Fever

Met up with Daddy Rob, Baby Rob and Kathryn (the new girl in town). Talk about a party animal !! After a few beers we hit the cocktails starting with a MachuPichu, a mixture of pisco, creme de menthe, and god knows what. Next up were screwdrivers, and the silly season started with B52's.

By then Mama Afrikas was rocking with a live band and some amazing dancers. Sorry to say it was another very late night/early morning but lots of fun. If anyone reading this is planning to go to Cusco then this is the place to go.

Stop The Plane

The plane that should have left at 11am decided to go at 9.30am at which point I was still on the canoe heading upstream !! Being the one and only flight of the day things didn't look good until the tour guide radioed aheadand got them to hold the plane for an hour ... yep 100 passengers had to wait for me to arrive ... how cool was that. Somehow I cannot imagine British Airways or Easyjet doing the same !!!

Snakes, Spiders & Creepy Crawlies

Jungle treking at its best and first spot of the day was a tarantula. I was surprised how quick they were as they scurried across the floor but in many ways it's the name rather than anything else that plays on the mind. Next up was a canoe trip across the swamp and with it a close up view or an anaconda that had recently eaten a wild pig. talk about gross cos the size of its stomach was massive and it was just lying waiting to digest. Just as well because it could have easily swallowed me whole. It was impossible to tell how long it was and I wasn't going to hang around to find out.

From then on it was a who's who of the jungle having seen toucan's, parrots, & fire ants. Later in the day I also got the chance to go pirahna fishing using monkey meat as bait. Things were oing well until a cayman showed up at which point the fish did a disapearing act. Never mind cos a couple of fish were pulled from the lake and even though they weren't pirahna's there's not many people who can say they have been fishing in the Amazon.

Quicksand

It should have been so easy, a 5 minute trip to Monkey Island, and then into the rainforest to see the animals, however the dangers of South America are never far away. Out boat was forced to land in different place forcing us to navigate some treacherous quicksand to reach dry land. At first we all thought it was great fun until Katrina suddenly disappeared up to her knees before she was grabbed by our guide. It took five minutes or so to pull her out ... leaving her boots behind but as Jules constantly reminds me ... this is an adventure !!

As for the monkeys well they were pretty cool, coming out of the trees to take banana´s from our hands, only stopping to pose for photos.

Into The Amazon

Felt more than a little jaded as I got up early for a short flight and a 2 hour canoe ride into the Amazon jungle. The lodge I stayed in was amazing with each hut having its own bathroom (cold shower), and hammock room to just laze the day away.

Lunch was a buffet of every type of fruit you could imagine, including of course the mandatory banana´s.

What hit me most though was the noise, with th constant drum of wildlife everywhere. This really is nature at it´s rawest.

Check Mate

Found the higheset Irish pub in the world and with it a pint of Guiness (ok so maybe more than one !!)

Moved on to a nightclub where after a few cocktails I was invited to play chess (yes chess!!) by a Peruvian girl. Unusual approach but worked cos there I was moving the chess pieces like a scene out of "The Thomas Crown Affair".

As they say "only in Peru" but fab evening and for the record books ... yes she beat me !!

Cusco

This place has to go down as one of the most beautiful cities I have visited. Set high into the Andes, a wonderful mix of cathedrals, churches, old colonial buildings, and some very old Inca walls. It also has more restaurants, bars & shops than you can imagine. I spent the day wandering, exploring, browsing & buying.

Once again it feels as though I´ve moved from the ancient world to the modern world.

Change Of Plan

Planned to stay in Puno for a couple of days but found out that was going to be some serious protests and a real threat of violence. It also meant that there would be no bus service until who knows when so packed my bags and caught the night sleeper to Cusco arriving at 3.30am in the morning.

Taquille Island

A short boat ride found me in another Indian community. I had read a lot about Taquille where th men knit all day and wear different coloured hats depending on their marital status. In many ways the reality was a little disappointing and it felt as though as a tourist I was intruding into the traditional way of life.

The best part of the day was the 3 hour boat trip back to Puno. I had th sundeck to myself and was able to chill taking in the rays.

Rum Ba Ba

Woke up at 3am to the sound of dripping water coming through the ceiling. Got my torch and saw some delightful brown liquid and immediate thoughts were of sewage so I leapt into action and moved everything out of the way. However in doing so I detected a distinct smell of alcohol !!

Very strange so I held my hand out underneath the drips ... and then bravely tasted it ... RUM !!

How lucky am I ... staying in a mud hut with rum on tap but where was it coming from ??

The next morning the mystery was solved when I found out that another guy was staying in th loft above me and he had tripped over a bottle of rum in the night and sent it spilling through the floorboards.

The nativ indian family found the whole episode very amusing and it was with lots of smiles and laughter that I said my goodbyes.

Match Of The Day

Peru versus the Rest Of The World at 4,000 metres ! Yep we´ve managed to scrape together a footie team to play the locals. No way we could compete on a fitness level due to the altitude so it had to be our skill that led to a 4-0 victory.

As always the real winner was the number of new friends I made and a couple of hours later we were all invited to the local dance, and to keep in with the locals even dressed the part with ponchos and Peruvian hats. Each dance lasted at least 15 minutes and after the football I just about made it , although the local beer did help. By midnight it was time to return home to my new family for a peaceful nights sleep ... or so I thought ??

Photos

After numerous techie problems I´ve finally managed to upload a few photos at the following address ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/94309337@N00/sets/72057594117131448/

Back To Basics

As always first stop of the day was the local market, this time to buy gifts for my host family. It was a bit like doing the weekly shop as I bought rice, pasta, sugar, salt, milk, candles, anmd some presents for the kids. A three hour boast ride took me to Isla Armantani to be met by my new Mum & Dad.

It was a very strange experience but I managed to say "allillanohu" or "hello" in the local language. No sooner had I arrived lunch was being served in the kitchen which was only 4ft high. The meal of soup, yams and goats cheese was delicious, but having eaten the yams it was time to replenish the stock so I headed into the fields and for the next hour or so used the most basic of tools to dig up the crop for dinner.

Cue the kids, who had been at school, two girls aged 6 and 9, and two boys aged 12 & 16. It must have been difficult for them to have a stranger in the house yet the hospitality shown was second to none. It might be very basic with mud walls, and no electricty or running water but I feel very comfortable in my new home.

Puno

Four bus rides and a ferry have taken me to Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca and in doing so I´ve crossed the border into Peru. The trip was highly entertaining due to numerous transport failures but the scenery spectacular. The hotel Casona Plaza scores a maximum 5 and for the first time in 3 weeks its possible to take a bath. A long soak is well needed today because after yesterdays excursions on the bike my leg is very sore. Serves me right but then as someone once said ... "no pain, no gain" !!

The town itself is OK but full of shops waiting to tempt tourists from their money. There is also an army of little old ladies waiting to do the same. Having run the gauntlet I found a very nice restaurant and had fillet steak in a very nice red wine sauce. Just as well cos tomorrow I´m heading off to stay with a Quechua Indian family on the Isla Armantani.

Final Thoughts

Final thoughts on Bolivia ... breathtakimgly beautiful but sadly constantly fighting poverty and civil unrest.

The Worlds Most Dangerous Road

Sometimes you have to ask yourself why !!

Over 100 people a year die on this 67km stretch of road, most by simply driving over the edge amd into the 800ft drop below. Having been pumped up by the guide playing "Smack My Bitch Up" at full volume our group set off. The first 20km was on a paved road so pretty easy but then the road swithces dramatically to loose gravel and stones, boulders ... and narrows to a mere 9ft wide.

The concentration required to stay on the road far outweighed the fear factor, and the constant passing of crosses and shrines kept the find foccussed as at times I reached 35-40mph. For lunch we stopped at a shrine to an Israeli tourist who died doing exactly the same route as ourselves. There was no escaping the reality of what I had taken on.

Having said that there was little time to think of anything other than staying on the road, hitting the brakes, and getting round the corners. Both the road and the time whizzed by and six hours later I arrived at the bottom for the best beer of my life.

The really scarey bit was driving back up in a mini bus. Passing huge lorries with only inches to spare it was easy to see why so many people had died. Looking at the drop below, and even seeing wreckage the true danger finally hit home.

As I said at the beginning sometimes you have to ask yourself why, but for an adrenalin rush and a sense of achievment this will be hard to beat.

La Paz

It's very seldom that I don't feel comfortable in a place but La Paz is a city where you need to err on the side of caution. Drug dealings, pickpockets, muggers, it's got them all and with 60% unemployment tourists are prime targets. Sadly this has meant my spirit for adventure was slightly doused and I opted for an organised tour of the city.

In many ways the contrast between rich and poor is obscene but no different to any other third world country that I've been to. What was different was the witches market where it is possible to buy all sorts of potions to bring both good and bad luck to both yourself and others. Top of the list was a Llama fetus to be offered to Pachamama (god of the earth). I settled for a couple of cushion covers which I'm sure will be a lot more practical !!

Soccer Hooligans

Arrived in time to see the local team Boliviar play in the Bolivian equivilant of the Premiership, well not quite cos the standard was more like Division 2. The home team won 2-0, but the crowd were not happy so the game concluded with a synchronised throwing of cushions at players, managers, coaching staff, and the referee. Great fun and even the riot police seemed to be encouraging everyone to join in, just as well cos they looked very scary and were definitely not in the mood to take prisoners.

The Road To La Paz

Having prepared myself for a long journey things were not as bad as expected. The bus to Osuru took only 5 hours but without a single toilet stop so strategic eating/drinking was required. Having arrived early it allowe me to catch an early bus to La Paz with only a 5 minute wait which believe me was more than enough time in Osuru.

The second bus was a lot more comfortable and highlights included a travelling salesman taking full advantage of the captive audience to do a 30 minute sales pitch. There was also an on board video showing that well known Japanese blockbuster ... "Heaven & Earth Warriors" ... a sort of "Magnificent Seven" meets "Lord of the Rings".

One other weird thing was that you could see the moon at midday, very strange !!

The Job From Hell

Cerro Rico Silver Mine has to be one of the most dangerous places in the world. Started the day with a visit to the miners market to buy some dynamite (honest). Talk about "Explosives R Us", dynamite, fuses, potassium nitrate, you could get the lot. I spent $3 on enough gear to have my own big bang party and then headed of to the refinery. In hindsight I should have taken this as a sign of things to come with absolutely no health or safety precautions to be seen. Raw machinery, toxic fumes, in fact danger everywhere, and this was before I even got to the mine.

Next on the agenda, setting off the explosive, and after a quick demo I was moulding the dynamite around the fuse, and lighting the end. In typical Bolivian style it was now time for a photoshoot with the fuse rapidly burning towards the explosive, until our guide in a slightly aggitated voice said ... "run" !! Having done 100m in under 10secs there was just ime to turn round to see the explosion go off.

So with the warm act finished I entered the mine were conditions were horrendous. No modern machinery, just men against the mountain with the minimum of protection. A mouthful of cocoa leaves to filter the deadly gases that kill most of the miners by the age of 45, and an occasional drink of a 96% proof alcohol, which literally burns your head off. I was lucky to be given a face mask !!

Seeing men woking with just a pick in tunnels I couldn´t even stand in made me realise how lucky I am. The only future these guys have is an early death, and having spent 2 hours underground I was relieved to see daylight again. For the miners it wasn´t so simple, they would return day after day until they could return no longer.

Potosi

The highest city in the world at 4,070 metres above sea level, and built on the profits of the silver mine which has been running since 1545. A Unesco world heritage site made up of numerous colonial buildings and churches, which sadly mask the reality of the place ... over 8 million people have been killed in the mine. Strolling around the unique architecture it´s difficult to imagine what lies beyond.

A comfortable hotel (another 4) and keeping in with the luxury I went to Potosi´s finest restaurant with couple of Aussie guys called Daniel & Steve. Both are really nice and on their first trip outside of their homeland so I spent most of the evening passing on tips from my previous travels. Great conversations and the best Llama steak in town. Throw in scallops for a starter, washed down with the local beer and all for less than 4 quid a head.

Civilisation

After 3 days in the wilderness the tur finished in the town of Uyuni and more importantly the Tonito Hotel. Sharing dorms with 8 people is a lot of fine but it´s nice to get some personal space again. Large room, tiled bathroom, and the first 4 of my trip.

There was also a fantastic pizza restuarant run by a guy from Boston. Pizza, beer, and farewell to our guide Marco. It´s back to independent travel and dare I say civilisation albeit in a very basic form.

The Train Cemetary

Ever wondered where trains go to die ? Well it´s a small place in the middle of Bolivia and very weird to see over 100 rusting steam locomotives. Supposedly the first train was brought by the English so in many ways it was fitting that I should be saying goodbye to the age of steam.

The country is so poor but as always the people thrive on their sense of humours. Walter (our driver) and Rosemarie (his wife and cook) are such lovely people. Tonight she downed a beer in one, then showed me how to dance. In return I took some portrait shots of the two of them and promised to send a copy once I get back to the UK.

Salt With Everything

12,000 sq km of pure salt, unbelievable. At times it seemed as though we were flying with the clear blue sky being reflected in the flooded salt plain. To keep us entertained the guide told stories of people who had been lost for 3 days, and of 5 Israeli´s who died when their vehicle broke down. Fifthten minutes later our 4WD jeep ground to a halt as the engine completely gave up !!

Not to worry cos Walter the driver was quickly under the bonnet sucking on various pipes and spitting out petrol as though it was water. Within half an hour we were on our way again stopping only at a small hotel made from salt before reaching Uyuni.

The Bolivian Desert

More lagunas, and some very strange rock formations including a stone tree, as I headed across the Bolivian desert. Picnic lunch by another laguna with a superb 360 panorama. Sounds like I´m getting a bit blase about it all but words just cannot describe the amazing landscapes. The night was spent in a second refugio but this one was a lot better. Big dorms so sharing with eight other lads and we even had time for a quick game of basketbal before lights out at 9pm. Wonderfully named the Buena Vista there was just time for a quick shower (rating 3) before beers by candlelight overlooking the vast salt plain.

Laguna Colorada

Final stop of the day was Laguna Colorada another stunning lake only this time a deep red colour, and complete with hundreds of flamingos. There´s one thing seeing them in the zoo but to see them in their natural habitat was brilliant.

Home for the night was a "refugio" which scored a big fat zero !! No shower, no water, no electricity, and beds designed for the vertically challenged. As for the toilets ... a hole in the ground would be a generous description. Having said all of that the cook rustled up the best chicken, chips and salad I´ve had for a long time, and all on a single gas ring.

Getting to sleep was not so good. My 6ft4in frame in a 5ft bed, tempeartures of minus 10 and just a thin mud wall to offer protection. The only answer was to jump ino my sleeping bag fulling clothed, including fleece, wooly hat, and my trusty M&S thermal vest.

Sol De Manana

Writing this entry in my journal sitting on a sunny plateau 4,500 metres above sea level. More volcanic activity with bubbling mud pools and thermal pools that you can use to swim, sit, or just chill out. One week in and already this is turning into an amazing holiday.

Laguna Verde

First stop Laguna Verde an amazing lake coloured emerald green by the numerous mineral deposits including both copper and arsenic. Set against a brilliant blue sky, and throw in a near perfect volcano and this place was made for photographing. Best to wait for the photos and you can decide for yourself.

Crossing The Border

What an experience, just a shack in the middle of the Andes with a single border guard but after reading about long delays I breezed through with the minimum of fuss. Talk about chilled the guard actively encouraged me to take photo, anywhere else in the world I would have been arrested. I´ve joined up with a tour of 3 four wheel drive vehicles to head high across the Andes and deep into Bolivia but in doing so had my first experience of altitude sickness. Luckily it didn´t last too long and chewing on cocoa leaves does help.

El Tatio

Only on holiday would you get up at 4am, endure a 2 hour bone rattling bus ride, and pay for the privilege. El Tatio is in the middle of the volcanic region and a field of boiling water, steam fissues, and regular geyser activity. The catch is that you have to be there at dawn to catch all the action.

Valley Of the Moon

Started the day with a tour of the local museum to see some ancient mummy´s and some even older sniffing tools. Makes you realise that doing drugs is not a new thing !! Hired a mountain bike and went on a 20km cycle into the desert. Hot, dusty, & hard work but well worth it. Late afternoon went to the Valley of the Moon, a volcanic landscape like I´ve never seen before. Climbed a ridge to watch the sunset, a perfect way to end a very busy day.

San Pedro

A sleepy little town in the middle of nowhere and home for the next 3 days. It´s small, it´s quaint, and it´s full of Gringo´s heading out to the volcanic region.

Booked into the Rau Paolo hotel which is a fabulous collection of small buildings with mud roofs. There´s also courtyard, hammocks etc so easily gets a 3. Just as well cos after this I´m not gonna be able to shower for 3 days !!

Despite it´s size there is so much to do around this area so looks like I´m gonna have a lot of fun.

Antofagusta

Chile´s second largest town built on the profits of the copper industry. A rough and ready place and a rough and ready hotel. The San Marcos just about scrapped a 2 and the Loñely Planet description of boxy and bleak if anything is generous.

Not mmuch to see other than a mini Big Ben in the town square so it was down to the beach for a swim. The Pacific Ocean did it´s best to entice with crystal clear waters but it was take your breath away cold. Still after the previous nights adventure an ice cold bath was just what was needed.

Are We There Yet ?

OK OK so this is the real entry ...

On the road again heading north to Antofagusta. Plan is to head up the coast then cut due east into the volcanic region. It was a long long journey most of it across the Atacama Desert where in some places it has not rained for over 100 years. Had to make it better somehow so opened up a bottle of red wine, the finest Merlot Chile could offer at three quid a bottle. Even better was the fact that I was sitting next to a Chilean guy who was a wine exporter, who was verykeento share some of his samples. Many hours later the coach finally stopped and we staggered off the best of friends !!

Beer Monster !!

Todays entry should read something like ...

Got on a bus, drank wine. Got off a bus, drank beer !!!!

Due to the fact that the drinking beer continued until 5am in the morning I´m not at my literary best ;)

Normal service will be resumed shortly !!

The Sky At Night

Sorry for the cheesy title but what else could I call this entry ?

Mamaluca Observatory is way up in the mountains so great opportunity to watch the sun go down before going into the dome to listen and learn. Have to say it was mind blowing to sit and think about the concept of galaxy´s, stars, solar systems etc. After a short presention we all got the opportunity to do some star gazing thru a huge telescope. The sky was really clear and I managed to see every single crater on the moon. Next up was Saturn and you could clearly see the rings. An hour later having looked at literally hundreds of stars it made me realise how small and insignificant the earth actually is.

Something to celebrate so we had a few glasses of the local Pisco Sour and then headed back to town.

Cazuela

A cloudy day and with it the temperature has dropped a good 10 degrees. Met up with Ed, Lydia and guy called Peter who is a great lad. First stop was the Japanese Gardens. Having found the gates shut and chained, we slipped the lock (ha ha) and had the whole place to ourself until we were thrown out by the security guards 30 mins later. Never mind cos we had more than enough time to walk around and take photos before heading off to the beach. It was OK but very exposed to a cold pacific wind so after walking for an hour or so it was time to warm up.

Ignoring the restaurants recommended by the Lonely Planet we found a small cafe populated by locals. Dish of the day was Cazuela, a beef stew served with potato, sweetcorn, pumpkin, rice and a warm crusty roll to mop up the juice. The cost ... just $1.50 and the best meal I´ve had since I´ve been here.

El Escorial

A fabulous little hotel built round a courtyard with balconies, large windows and a distinctive Sanish feel. A bargain at $15 a night including breakfast, and measureing a good 3 on the shower scale.

In many ways the town is just a stopover as I head north but with nice beaches, and some fabulous old buildings to explore, it´s worthing spending a day here. My other reason to stay is that I´ve heard it´s possible to visit the observatory at Cerro Mamaluca to view the southern night skies. Not sure I would class myself as an astronomist but Chile is meant to be one of thebest places in the world to view the stars so a chance not to be missed.

Ghost Town

Arrived at La Serena and quickly realised there was something missing ... people !! OK so it was Palm Sunday but for a largish town it seemed a little strange. Walking into the main square it became obvious what was happening. Every TV shop in town had at least 30 people gathered round the window watching the footie. Colo Colo (the local club) were playing Universad De Chile and everywhere a TV could be found people were watching the big match. The weird thing was that it was like being outside a stadium with the match going on inside because despite the lack of people the local equivilant of "you´re sh*t and you know you" was ringing out from every street corner. For the record book Colo Colo won 3-1 and that evening there were a lot of happy people.

The Road To La Serena

Quick ride on the subway and I arrived at the bus terminal for a 6 hour bus ride to La Serena. Sat next to an Aussie guy called Rob who was "tonguing for a beer" at 9am in the morning.

The trip itself took us along the rugged coast which seemed totally unspoilt despite the occasional punctuation by a small town or village. To the west were beautiful beaches and the waves of the Pacific Ocean. To the east vast deserts where only harsh plants and catcus could survive. Occasionally we crossed a dried river bed and an oasis of trees reminding us that very occasionally it did rain.

Enpanadas

No point going on my travels without trying the local food and Chile is no exception. An Enpanada is the local equivilant of a pasty normally made with either cheese/ham or minced beef/potato. Of course I went for the dady of them all ... chicken, fried onion, olives and fruits and yes it was scrummy. So much so that I´m already working on my plans to franchise !!

Doing The Tourist Bit

Having got up early intending to walk the city I found myself at breakfast talking to a crazy Aussie girl called Katrina who was planning on doing the same. So the two of us paired up and headed off together. Firts stop was Cerro Santa Lucia , a hilltop sancturary with some amazing fountains and a windy staircase going all the way to the summit, some 600m above us.

The walk itself was not too difficult but little did we know the true challenge was yet to come ... getting out of the park on the other side of the hill. No matter which exit we tried the gates were both chained and padlocked and even the resident gardener could not help. After a slight panic thinking we would be locked in for the rest of the day we finally found an exit that was open but to pass through we had to endure a gauntlet of industrail sprinklers which left us absolutely soaked thru to the skin, and the locals laughing at the stupid gringos.

The rest of the day was spent doing the tourist bits, and taking photos of the old architecture including the magnificent presidential palace. Along the way we kepy bumping into a couple of other English bods ... Lydia & Ed ... brother and sister from London/Oxford. It´s amazing how easy it is to make friends when you are travelling on your own.

Santiago

The first thing that hits you as you descend into Santiago is the smog that sits like a tight lid over the city. Such a conrtrast to the fresh scenery of the Andes which seem to be pushing the city ever closer to the ocean. The city itself is a vast urban sprawl without any obvious centre. It looks distinctly european with tree lined boulevards, colonial architecture and a vibrance generated by its people.

My hotel, the Libertador scores a 3 on the shower rating and although needing a fresh coat of paint is pleasant enough. One thing that does amuse me is the fact that the TV is mounted just a few inches from the ceiling so the only way to view is to look vertically upwards as you lie on the bed. The rest of the room could be described as "rustic", or maybe that should read "rusty". A throwback to the 1960´s but it has a bed and for the first time in 42 hours I can have a real sleep.

Good night !!

Blagged It

Having spent at least an hour running between the Lan Chile office and British Airways I finally convinced them to change my ticket ... and give me a free upgrade to First Class. How cool is that and of course I also had to blag my way into the VIP lounge. Might as well enjoy the luxury cos from now on it´s back to basics with a vengeance.

The City That Never Wakes

If Rio De Janerio is the city that never sleeps then Sao Paolo must be the ugly sister i.e. the city that never wakes !!

OK so it´s 5.30am in the morning and after an uneventful flight I arrived early. Fingers crossed that I can now change plans and fly straight to Santiago. Problem is that absolutely nothing is open until at least 7.30. The airport itself is much like any other including the mandatory McDonalds and of course the perform boys and girls trying to seduce me with squirts of Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier etc.

Now where is that ticket office ??

Time To Chill

Having survived the toxic rays of the new body scan security machine I find myself sitting by gate 6. After a few manic weeks it´s so nice to be doing nothing. As my mind wanders and my thoughts go blank I feel as though I´m wrapped in a cocoon. People pass me by but I neither see them or hear them so determined am I to chill. I´ve often told people to stop, take a step back, create the space, and then plan your actions. Now it is my turn to do exactly that.

The Shower Scale

For years the travel writers have argued about how to rate hotels etc. Internationally the recognised format seems to be stars, although some use roses, and some even count cockroaches !!

Me ?? I go for the shower scale and for those of you that have never seen before here it is ...

Score on the doors !!

5 - Top Banana ... creme de las creme ... typical tropical ... hot water, power shower, hand maidens to wash, dry and throw rose petals at your feet !!
4 - Very comfortable, clean, soft towels but little limited in terms of space etc.
3 - At least its a shower but average in terms of cleanliness and towels beginning to feel like abrasive pads.
2 - Water luke warm and you need to be a contortionist to actually get wet. Probably not helped by the fact I'm 6ft 4ins tall.
1 - Bucket n hose job. A better option would be to head off to the local river

Day 0 - The Start Of An Adventure

Bags packed, apartment tidied, and now its all about waiting for that magic moment when I can head off to the airport. I've no expectations, no pre concieved ideas, just an open mind and a sense of adventure. It seems a strange feeling having waited so long, and in the back of my mind just a hint of sadness about Mum.

This time tomorrow I'll be on the other side of the world, easy words to write but when you think about it ... awesome.

Th adventure starts here !!

Thanks Michelle

Got a message from a friend last night ...

Have a fabulous time !! Enjoy every little second of it.
Take the time to just sit back, relax, and watch the sun set.
Wake up early and climb to the highest peak that you can find – let me know how different the world looks from up there.
Forget your cell phone, and the internet, and every other modern gadget – except for that digital camera of course! Don’t forget the camera!!
Walk until your perspective changes.
Have a real, tears in your eye, stomach hurts, kind of laugh with a complete stranger.
Divert from your agenda for just one day. (I dare ya) ;)
Go someplace that you had no idea even existed.
Write about it so that you won’t forget – not that the memories would ever fail you.

Fabulous words which deserve to be shared, and each sentence a challenge by itself. Thanks Michelle for making me think, and also for an alternative agenda. You rock !!

Once You Have Packed ...

... take half your clothes, and double your money.

Read that last night and thought it a great bit of advice although if I cut down any more I'll be running around in my boxers lol

The Boss

OK confession time ... I have to admit I'm a bit of a rebel at heart. Like most people I got a boss, but he takes little or no interest in what I do. All a bit strange cos he doesn't believe in my role at work but has to put up with it cos the CEO is massive supporter and I got 60,000 people who I deliver too. Anyway I not seen him since October and it sorta completely slipped my mind to tell him that I'm going away (yeah right !!). Honestly I have not told him, he has no idea. I was meant to be meeting him tomorrow but I cancelled it.

So my dilemma is should I tell him before I go ?

My team know, my colleagues know, in fact you know cos your reading my blog but he has no idea (he says with a big smile on his face).

How about I send him a postcard from the Amazon jungle ?

Wish you were here ? Na ... glad he is not !!

Two Days To Go

6am Tuesday morning and I only got two days to go. Papers all sorted, 25% packed and only couple of last minute items to shop for. Just as well cos all kicked off at work and next two days are gonna be very intensive. Closing 5 shops, 200 plus people in potential redundancy situation and of course I care about that ... but ... sometimes iit is important to create the space you need at a personal level so then ...

No laptop,
No mobile,
No calls into the office and
No telling anyone where I am going.

Ooooo that sounds so good ;)

Getting Excited !!

About time I hear you say but my life has been so manic with so many ups n downs that I have just not had time to think about the trip. Well that is about to change. Started sorting my gear out and looking seriously at my route.

First challenge ... taking only what I need. I want to travel light but there is always the temptation to pack far too much. I need to remind myself that I probably wont be needing a dinner jacket in the Amazon jungle :) So its down to the essentials and realising that a lot of stuff I can purchase on my wanders if I really find I'm missing something.

My 3 most important items ... journal, camera and my trusty ipod. Anything else is a pure luxury !!

Join Up The Dots

With little over two weeks to go its time to get serious on the planning. Armed with a very large map of South America, my Lonely Planet guides and of course Google my rough plan is as follows ...

Brazil
San Paolo

Chile
Santiago
La Serena
Antofagasta
Calama
San Pedro de Atacama
Tatio Geysers

Bolivia
Laguna Colorado
Salar de Uyuni
Potosi
La Paz
Lake Titicaca

Peru
Uros
Amantani Islands
Taquile Island
Puno
Cuzco
Fly to Puento Maldonado then canoe into the Amazon Jungle
Back to Cuzco
Sacred Valley
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
Fly to Lima

Argentina
Beunos Aires

For the exact route all you gotta do is plot on a map and join up the dots !!

The Adventurer

For the last few weeks I've struggled so desperately to continue this blog. My thoughts empty, my words gone, and a nothingness descended. This week someone I hardly know sent me an email containing the following ...

There once was an adventurer who lived in a land others only heard about….it was called the land of Beauty and Colour. It was an enchanting and desireable place created by the paintbrush of his eyes. This adventurer would take obscure and forgotten things from the neighboring land of Grey and give them new meaning and vibrant life. Wherever he went, joy followed like gentle music dancing along with his every step. He would occassionally leave the land of Beauty and Colour to visit the citizens of the land of Grey. With his paintbrush he would encourage them and tell them of his homeland and other lands that they too could create and go to. He would share pictures of his places and inspire the lonely and hurting. The adventurer’s name was Kindness and in the language of the land of Grey he was called Malc.

I was so touched by the beauty of those words and reading them helped my inner self to return.

Dangers & Annoyances

Dont you just love the way the travel guides have a section called Dangers & Annoyances, and even more so, how you are drawn to those pages. So then what can I expect ...

Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, tsunami's, landslides, muggings, snatch robberies, scams, drugs, packs of wild dogs, altitude sickness, yellow fever, and even the plague ... to name but a few.

I am so relieved ... not a snake in sight. I HATE snakes !!!!!!!!!

Getting Organised

The last week has been very difficult with so much to do and a rollercoaster of emotion but one thing I learnt from my Mum was the need to plan, prepare and to get as much as possible done in advance. First of all I indugled in some retail therapy buying myself a new backpack, and a new sleeping bag. I've also started to plan what I will, and more importantly wont be taking. I'm planning on no more than 15k weight wise and given the extremes of temperature they'll be no room for luxuries.

I've also booked an appointment at the travel clinic to get any necessary jabs. Always makes me smile when the nurses say "come in and drop your trousers", and to think they get paid for it lol.

Next on the list is to work out how much money I'll need, and what currency but that can wait for a few weeks yet. In the meantime I'll be reading Lonely Planet and getting hyped up on the places I want to see.

Dedicated to Mum

Sadly my Mum passed away this morning after a short illness and I thought it would be nice to dedicate this trip, and therefore this blog to her. I guess in many ways she also inspired me with my travels but maybe in a different way to the other people I've mentioned.

She set me on my way at the age of 14 by trusting me enough to travel on my own with the school. She helped support me financially, and she encouraged me to enter my first photographic competition ... which I actually won. From there on she always took an interest in my adventures, and loved to hear the smallest detail.

She shared stories of when she lived in Singapore as a child, and how she one day dreamed of going back to Asia. In 1996 that dream came true when she visited me in Hong Kong and pride of place in her study was a photo of her and my Dad with Hong Kong Harbour as the backdrop.

Two weeks ago she was so excited when I told about my plans to visit South America and even though she was quite ill asked if I would copy my full itinerary so she could read it. Siting here tonight its so hard to accept that she wont read my postcards, wont see my photos, and wont get to listen to my stories, but knowing she got to see where I was going is a small comfort.

God bless you mum and I know you'll be keeping an eye on me, and telling me to wrap up warm just like you always have.

Inspired By

To the right of this entry are a couple of links under the heading "Inspired By". I thought it would be quite cool to link to a couple of better known travellers ...

1. Michael Palin, ex Monty Python's and writer presenter of such shows as "Around the World in 80 Days", "Pole to Pole", "Full Circle", "Hemingway Adventure", "Sahara", and most recently "Himalaya".
   
2. Ian Wright, market boy turned travel presenter on Globe Treker.

I love watching and listening to the adventures and experiences they go through but my real inspiration came much earlier in my life. At the age of 14 I was lucky enough to meet two school teachers who would kindle my travel bug. Both taught at Swanley School in Kent, England.

Carlos Hood is a legend in his lifetime. History teacher extraordinaire who has recently retired having been given the "Freedom of the Town".

Chris Leeming my Geography teacher who introduced me to travel, photography and a love of the outdoors.

Both these guys were keen travellers who one summer holiday decided to take 10 school kids (including me) on an adventure holiday to Scotland. The following year they took us to the South of France, and the year after that back to Scotland. They taught me to travel, to camp, to hike, to cook, to take photos, and to drink beer !! More than that they taught me to appreciate and respect people, places and cultures. Two years ago I met up with them both and we shared our photos and our memories. I wish I had told them just how much they had inspired me. Maybe one day they will read this, I hope so.

Bedtime Reading

Got them !!

Dont they look good ... 3 Lonely Planet guides sitting on my bed just begging to be read. First Chile, then Bolivia, and finally Peru.

So What Next ?

So many things to think about ... what do I take, do I need visa's, how much money, where am I gonna stay ... time to trawl the web, and of course while I'm doing it buy the Lonely Planet guides from Amazon.

Two days later and armed with various documents I eagerly await the delivery of my books only to find out that the parcel company cannot find my apartment. Must be so difficult cos I live all of 5 miles from the depot and after all everyone else can find it. The only saving grace is that they are not in the travel businsess :)

Oh well I've agreed to pick up at the weekend so not much longer to wait. Then the fun really starts !!

The Plan

"A dream can be, a dream come true.
It only takes a spark from me or you"

One of my favourite quotes and its from a song that plays endlessly on Walt Disney's "Journey Into The Imagination" ride in Epcot Centre. So this is it, the picture that gave me the spark I needed. I've always dreamt of visiting Machu Picchu the famous Lost City of the Inca's and was casually browsing through a travel brochure and sorta stumbled on the South American section. Being somewhat impulsive the "dream" became "I wonder" and then very quickly "why not". Next thing I was on the phone cashing in my air miles for a flight to Brazil, and then working out a rough route around South America very quickly. So then the plan (and a little different from the route in the picture) is to start in Santiago and work my way up to Bolivia, across into Peru with Machu Picchu being the highlight at the end of my trip. I'm also planning to spend a couple of days in Beunos Aires on the way home.

I've booked all my flights (7 in total) and some accomadation, but theres still a couple of months till I go so no need to get stressed just yet !!

My Journal

A beautiful brown leather journal and a present from Natalie, a very dear friend. Embossed on the cover were the following 9 words ...

Heroic, Devoted, Poised, Earthy, Insightful, Warm, Charming, Enriching and Loyal.

Maybe it was more than just a present, maybe a hidden message, and certainly words that I would like to live up to. It looks so empty at the moment, and has that wonderful fresh smell of something new. Paper just waiting to be used, and me a traveller just waiting to depart, but before I do there is some serious organising to do.

The Journey Begins

"A journey of a thousand miles must begin with one small step", and in this case that small step is the setting up of a journal. Having thought long and hard about if, and then how, I should record my journey, I've decided to use a mixture of modern technology i.e. this blog, and the more traditional (and possibly more reliable) pen and paper.

Who knows where this adventure will lead me, or what new experiences it will bring, but I hope to capture the sights, sounds, smells and even the tastes through my words. I'll see new places, meet new people, but above all I want to learn ... about myself and others.